I remember speaking with many of you before we came across to Melbourne and saying we thought the course would put us out of our comfort zone as much as possible. Well so far our course facilitators have been extremely kind to us, and our entry into new things has been gradual and easy. Not so the last week!!
We have had to visit a non-English speaking church for the past 2 weeks and we have 2 to go. We decided to visit an Ethiopian Orthodox church last week and if we were to rank uncomfortable, and cultural shock it was a 10!! This week we returned again and although the shock wasn't as great certainly it was physically uncomfortable......let me explain.
Week 1 we had friends hint I may need a skirt and shawl - just in case I needed my head covered. So we turn up and I have a medium length black skirt and black top on, with a grey shawl. I immediately watch women walking in and realise big mistake!! Everyone is black skinned and wearing white,with long skirts and white veils over their head! I'm white skinned in black with a scarf on my head which I have no idea how to tie. Shane also is in a black jacket, while all the men are covered in long white shawls. If our skin colour alone didn't make us stick out like sore thumbs our clothes certainly do.
When we enter the tiny church (it used to be used as a Uniting church) we take our shoes off like everyone...oops my socks have a hole in them! when we get inside we walk into the foyer and there are women and children everywhere. They hustle Shane and Tom and Oli into the church to the far side ...oops Men should enter from the back door and are on the left. An old mama motions Lucy, max and I into the church too..there is a small gap near the back (right hand side only for women and kids) and for us the service begins. We learn later the service began at 7am (thankfully the priest told Shane on the phone to come at 9am) and will go to 12.30 usually but today they finish early at 11.45 because they have white visitors (Oh, that would be us......how nice of them!)
There is lots going on to watch if one can see through the smoke and incence.Everyone is standing, and only sit to pray if they cant kneel and prostrate on the floor. there is continuous chanting on a microphone although the space is so small and the priest voice so loud a mike is really not needed. We don't understand a word, and within 10 minutes Max is quite upset. I want to go home, its too noisy, it smells. etc etc. I sit down against protocol to comfort him and distract him with a book. Meanwhile I notice all the Ethiopian kids have no toys to play with but are sitting or lying quietly on the floor! It must have worked though because soon Max is unconsciously humming to the chants and swaying to and fro! Soon a bible comes around wrapped in lace and white material and we all kiss it and let it touch our head. Its carried to us by an alterboy in beautiful gold trimmings and another carrying a blue and gold umbrella to be held over the bible. To cut a long story short the chanting prayers, and smoke go on, sometimes before us, sometimes behind a curtain at the alter. 1.5 hours later they begin communion but its mainly kids that take it, from a spoon like medicine and it must taste this way, because they all screw their faces up when it enters their mouth! Then they get a small silver cup of holy water to wash it down and its all held in their mouths by dutiful mums who somehow hold the toddler, keep white veils on their head, and then hold their mouths shut so the holiness stays in!!We later found out few adults take communion because they have to fast first, and stay that way for the day, almost in solitude keeping the holiness of commn and water within.
After this we discovered later all the kids go out and have food and a break, because they have fasted all morning, but because we're in the church we don't know this (mums and kids were in the foyer) so we sit or stand for another 45 mins. During this time there is some congregational singing in Amharic and all to the beat of a huge drum. This bit is very cool. There are some notices - I think about us??!! then holy water is given to all of us in silver cups and this we can have without fasting. Finally after 2.5 hours its over.
During the service there were 3 mamas behind me, very serious looking but on their way out they pat me on the shoulder and smile beautifully. I haven't followed all their actions and I look out of place but I feel their warmth and acceptance and it means alot. When we leave the church I look for our shoes to put on and there are 2 ladies that talk to me. They are lovely. They share openly, answer some of my questions, introduce us to their kids, and make us feel very welcome. Meanwhile inside the priest and 3 men are all talking to Shane. They are also friendly, welcoming and interested in our plans. So although we felt uncomfortable and out of place, it was worth it to meet these lovely people and feel their warmth and acceptance.
We went again today and there isn't time now to give lots of detail, but I'm surprised that it was so much more comfortable. It was only our second visit, and already we felt much more 'in place'. We wore white, and I had a white scarf!! The boys went in the right door, the little ones came with me through the front. Today there was a visiting Bishop and LOTS of people, so I had to join the throngs in the foyer. It was literally standing room only, so it was quite a long time on the legs! Lucy and Max were able to sit on the floor, and they watched all the kids playing hand games quietly or hanging on their Mums (or I think it was their Mums - they all seem to help each other, as a big family.) There are about 120 women and children in the tiny foyer and many sneak me a smile as we catch eye contact with each other. The little children are gorgeous. Even Lucy whispers, Mum these kids are really cute!! Today we go out after communion because we're in the know, and the kids are happy about this after 2 hours of standing/sitting, understanding nothing!
Outside 2 ladies wipe a wet seat for me with their tissues, and invite me to sit down. We get talking and they are fantastic. Before long we have exchanged numbers, addresses and Mame (the older lady) wants us to visit sometime for injera andwat and coffee. Sisi her good friend who has 3 small children a little younger than ours, lives right near Mame and wants us to come for a play when we visit. Both are from Addis, and promise they will let us know all we need to know.
So in exchange for a little culture shock, we have made new friends, worshipped in a different way, but felt the warmth of others who have accepted us despite our differences. It was definitely worth it!!!
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| Everyone else was black and dressed in white. Do you think we stood out????Tom liked the big umbrella!! |
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| Oliver was very brave sitting in between two strangers(their big smiles helped), but also very intrigued by all that was going on |